Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's national figures put installed epoxy at about $4 to $10 per square foot, or $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage. Polyaspartic systems run higher, about $5 to $12 per square foot. Moisture mitigation, crack repair and flakes add to the total. Your number comes in writing once we have seen the concrete.

On a sound, dry slab, yes: it seals the concrete, resists oil and fuel stains, and cleans with a mop. It is a poor choice on a slab with high moisture vapor emission unless the system is built for it, and plain epoxy should not be left in direct sun. That is why we check the slab and the exposure before recommending a coating.

You can. HomeGuide lists DIY kits at about $200 to $700, and they are sold at home centers in Davie. Most kit failures come from prep: kits usually rely on acid etching instead of grinding, and they do not test for moisture. On a damp South Florida slab, that is the step that matters most.

Material quantity depends on the product's coverage rate and how many coats the system has, which is listed on the manufacturer's data sheet. For budgeting, HomeGuide's $4 to $10 per square foot works out to about $4,000 to $10,000 installed for 1,000 square feet, before moisture mitigation or repairs.

It depends on the slab. HomeGuide notes that water-based epoxy can go on a damp floor but lasts about 3 to 5 years, while 100% solids epoxy lasts about 10 to 20 years but should not go on floors with moisture problems. We often use epoxy as the primer or base coat and finish with a polyaspartic topcoat for UV resistance.

Florida Statute 720.3035 limits association review to what the governing documents allow, and restricts review of interior features not visible from the frontage, neighbors or common areas. A garage floor rarely needs approval; a visible pool deck or driveway color may. Check your declaration.

The dry season, roughly November through April, is easier: lower humidity and fewer afternoon storms. We do coat floors in summer, working early in the day and rescheduling if the slab or air is too wet. If you want the garage ready before hurricane season, aim for spring.

HomeGuide puts water-based epoxy at about 3 to 5 years and solid epoxy at about 10 to 20 years, depending on traffic and moisture. Prep and the topcoat matter as much as the product.

Usually poor prep, a thin coating, hot tire pickup or moisture coming up through the slab. If an old coating is bubbling or lifting in patches, we remove it and check the slab before recoating.

A smooth, glossy coat can be slick when wet, which matters in a garage where rain drips off cars. Flakes add texture, and an anti-slip additive can go in the topcoat.

Not reliably. Paint and failing coatings are ground off so the new system bonds to the concrete, not to whatever is on it.

Bob Vila reports about three days for epoxy and about 24 hours for polyaspartic. We give the time for your system in writing.

Less than a smooth gloss coat, because the chips leave texture. For very wet areas we add an anti-slip aggregate to the topcoat.

It hides small flaws, stains and color variation. Cracks are still filled and ground flush first; a moving crack can reappear through any coating.

The topcoat is usually the weak point, not the flakes. Plain epoxy can yellow in UV; a polyaspartic topcoat resists yellowing.

Sweep or dust mop, then damp mop with a mild cleaner. Avoid harsh acids. Wipe fuel and oil spills when you see them.

It is better in UV resistance and cure speed, and it costs more. Epoxy builds thickness well and is often used under polyaspartic. The right answer depends on sun exposure, schedule and the slab.

HomeGuide lists 10 to 20 years or more in residential settings, depending on prep, traffic and moisture.

Its UV stability makes it a common choice for sun-exposed slabs and as a topcoat on outdoor systems. Outdoor slabs also need a slip-resistant texture and a moisture check.

Because polyaspartic cures fast enough to grind, coat and seal in a day on many garages. Moisture, repairs or a large area can push it to two days.

We do not coat over tile. Grout lines and loose tiles show through and can crack the coating. Tile and thinset are removed and the concrete is ground.

Any glossy floor shows scratches. Mats at the doors, felt pads and a satin topcoat reduce what you see, and the topcoat can be renewed.

It is smooth, and smooth floors are slick when wet. An anti-slip additive can go in the topcoat, especially near pool doors and kitchens.

You choose the colors and the general style. The final pattern depends on how the resin and pigment move, which is part of the look.

Plain epoxy is a poor fit: it yellows in UV and can be slick. Outdoors we use UV-stable systems such as polyaspartic or polyurea topcoats or acrylic textures.

Color has the biggest effect. Light colors reflect more sun than dark ones, and some finishes are made to stay cooler. No coating stays cold in July.

It depends on the system. Fast-curing polyurea and polyaspartic systems return to use far sooner than epoxy, which Angi says can take up to a week. We give you the time in writing.

Pavers are usually sealed, not coated, because they move. Coatings are for poured concrete.

If your declaration covers exterior surfaces or colors and the deck is visible, possibly. Check your documents first.

Often, by phasing the floor in sections and working nights or weekends. Fast-curing topcoats shorten each section's downtime.

A thick, heavily textured system with good chemical resistance and planned drainage. Smooth glossy finishes are too slick for wet aisles.

It depends on traffic, the system and how worn lanes are maintained. HomeGuide puts solid epoxy at about 10 to 20 years in general use; forklift lanes and wash bays wear faster, and a worn topcoat can be renewed before the base coat is reached.

Yes. The high water table across Broward makes it a standard step before choosing a system.